Whenever you eat shellfish in South African restaurants, the menu says it comes from Saldanha. I’ve always wanted to go to this magical place up West Coast, the birthplace of yumness, and eat cheap sea-food. So, this past weekend – to mark our 2 year anniversary – my boyfriend and I ventured the hour and half drive out of the city.
After some research and phoning around, I’d found out that the oyster factory no longer sells direct to the public, but you can buy from Charlie’s Fish Shop in Suldahna for R7.60 each. We stopped by and picked up the cheapest dozen we’d ever got and headed on to the accommodation I’d randomly found via Booking.com to eat oysters and drink wine (that we’d bought in Cape Town before leaving the city) on their terrace.
We stayed in Jacob’s Bay – A place I’d never heard of but I liked the look of the guesthouse, Klokkiebosch. It’s a tiny village between Suldahna and Paternoster. 20 mins each way. The whole of Jacob’s Bay has white washed houses, with blue details and gravel roads – so It reminds you of Greece or Italy (or what photos of Greece or coastal Italy make me think it’s like).
It’s the most sleepy, idyllic place and I’d love to disappear there for at least a week, just to read, breathe and relax. Our guesthouse was Klokkiebosch and it was just charming.
We headed into Paternoster for Rugby (SA beat Scotland, yay) and Paternoster is an equally idyllic (if somewhat more established) fishing town. Complete with white washed buildings and a long stretch of soft sand beach. Food in Paternoster was not as cheap as I’d dreamed, but fancier. Turns out it’s quite a fine-dining hub and all the main restaurants were fully booked. The Noisy Oyster and The Gaaitjie. We found a table at the cozy Square Spoon and had Snoek, Prawns and seafood curry with coconut rice. All very yum.
The following morning we returned to Paternoster for lunch where we managed to get a table at Gaatjie. I’d recommend Gaatijie for lunch and the Noisy Oyster for dinner if you’re doing the foodie thing, because Gaatjie is RIGHT on the beach so the views would be wasted at night. (Again, I felt like i was eating in Greece – or heaven.) It’s fine dining at it’s best and the presentation and flavours were sublime. But it still has the natural laid back environment of a small beach town.
A very memorable anniversary lunch was followed by a stroll on the misty beach before the scenic drive back to Cape Town to catch more rugby (Argentina beat Tonga!) Good food and good results all weekend.